Camo Socks for the Bitty Twins

I had just a little bit of this camo yarn left for my daughter's dolls and decided to make them some socks.

I used a free preemie pattern (Chandler's Preemie Socks) and tweaked it a bit.

I did the 10 rows of ribbing, but I didn’t need a fold-over cuff, so I went straight to the heel. It’s a good thing, too, because I wouldn’t have had nearly enough yarn otherwise.

I would have used the heel suggested in the pattern in order to try something different, but I just don’t “get it”. (I frogged the first sock at least three times.) I did my tried-and-true regular heel flap and got no holes (as usual), so I didn’t see the point in making it confusing to avoid holes I didn’t get anyway.

I started decreasing for the toe on row 13 (assuming you don’t start re-counting rows until after all the decreases are finished on the gusset).

 They are really cute, and I achieved my objective of using up the yarn. There were about 8” of yarn left, and I gave myself permission to throw it away. :)

Brown Bitty Pants

These pants were an experiment, which (hopefully) explains the strange color. I wanted to try out a pattern designed as leggings for AG dolls, but I didn't want them to be "skinny jeans".

I used the free pattern Chinese Woollies and made the following modifications:

• I didn’t do any of the leg decreases after the gusset.

• I knit the legs to 5” (inner leg measurement), then did a purl row and 6 more stockinette rows to be hand-sewn down afterward. This creates a more traditional-looking pants hem, instead of it hugging the ankle with ribbing.

I like the fit, so I'll probably be making more in the future.

Bitty Camo Romper

I made another Baby Doll Romper (paid pattern), this time with the camo yarn.

I figured out why my last one was gaping at the neck and only had one buttonhole: In the pattern, I skipped the entire section labeled “Small size only” and went directly to “Large size only”. Unfortunately, that meant I completely missed the first buttonhole because I thought everything under the “Small size only” section was indeed only for the small size. It’s not. I’m going to highlight it on my pattern so I don’t make the same mistake again.

I really love how these rompers come out, though. They're a perfect fit, and so cute!

Bitty Camo Pants

Since I had a lot of extra camo yarn, I tried out a new pattern for doll pants (appropriately called Dolly Pants).

This pattern is great, but a bit vague. If you’ve knit a pair of doll pants before, it’s a piece of cake. If you haven’t, it might be a little frustrating in places.

Since I did knit a few pair before, this was simple, fast and very cute. I’ll probably be doing more of them!

Bitty Camo Hoodie

I made another hoodie for the Bitty Twins, this time especially for the boys. I found this camo yarn (Baby Bee) in Hobby Lobby when I was looking for something else, and I knew I had to make something with it.

This is the same pattern as the last one, Doll Hoodie Sweater by Pamala Feldpausch (a paid pattern).

There was plenty of yarn left, so look for some more camo projects!

Preemie clothes fit Bitty Twins

Wow! Where has an entire week gone?? I feel like I've been "out of the loop" this week, but I think it has to do with homeschooling. Last week was the end of our first nine weeks, and I like to plan out nine weeks' worth of lesson planning at a time. (It doesn't work for everyone, but it does for me.) Of course that meant that I had to do another nine weeks' worth of lesson planning, and that made my whole week feel "off".

It certainly didn't help matters when I discovered that I had skipped an entire week of our My Father's World curriculum! Fortunately, it was the week we were supposed to be doing this week (#10), so I'm just going to do it next week. The funny thing is that I knew something didn't seem right about how we skipped some of the most important events in Joseph's life, but I never thought to check to see if we were on the right week.

At any rate, I haven't had a lot of time (or inspiration) for posting this week. But I do have a little tip to share with you ...
 

The Bitty Twins can fit preemie-sized clothing!

When my local Wal-Mart got in their winter baby sleepers, a few of them caught my eye. I noticed that they only got one or two preemie-sized in each design, so there are no guarantees that your Wal-Mart will have them. But if they do, you can't beat $8 for a zippered sleeper that fits them well.

"Real" AG/Bitty pajamas do fit them "to a tee", but they're three times the price (not including shipping), and my daughter is going to love these sleepers for her dolls. I'm saving them for Christmas gifts.

Nightgown/Dress for Bitty Twin Girl

I had this baby yarn sitting around with no project in sight. So when I decided to try scaling down a real baby pattern for the Bitty Twins, I grabbed it. I wouldn't be upset if I had to rip it all out.

It went surprisingly well. It could stand to be a little bit tighter on her, but it's a pretty good fit, all things considered.

The pattern is a free one called Oriental Lily. I chose to do it in the Newborn size, but I switched to sport-weight yarn and size 6 needles. I also changed the arms by knitting only 20 rows before the edging.

Because of the colors, I think this looks like a nightgown, but I'm going to let my daughter decide (after Christmas).

Hoodie for Bitty Twins

I love this hoodie sweater! This is a pattern I purchased on Ravelry, called Doll Hoodie Sweater.

Since I despise seaming, I adjusted the pattern to work it seamless. It was a cinch.

The pattern originally called for it to curl a bit at the hem, but I didn't like that look. Mine rarely stop curling when they're supposed to, so I simply did four rows of garter stitch at the bottom to prevent that. I got the idea from other people who had knit the hoodie. (I always like to look through "helpful pattern notes" before beginning a new pattern.)

My daughter's Bitty Twins are going to have a complete wardrobe overhaul after Christmas this year! :)

Bitty Doll Romper

This one is not my design. It's a pattern I purchased from Ravelry called Baby Doll Romper. At first, I wasn't so sure about purchasing a pattern when I'm getting pretty good at figuring things out myself. However, I'm very glad that I did because I would have never figured out the crotch area by myself. The pattern made it very easy, though.

This perfectly fits the Bitty Twins, even though it wasn't designed specifically for them.

The neck is a bit big, but the fullness is mostly in the back, so it doesn’t stand out much.

This is designed almost like a onesie without snaps at the crotch, but I wanted long pants and sleeves.

I simply knit the sleeves to 3” (measured under arm) before switching to the contrast color. Next time, I’ll change that to 2-1/2”, since it could stand to be just a bit shorter.

I knit the legs to 4-1/2” (measured on inner leg) before switching to the contrast color. They are perfect.

The one (very minor) thing I would change is to add a second buttonhole closer to the top. I suspect that might solve the problem of the gaping neck.

This was very well-designed. I had no trouble getting it off and on the doll. I don’t expect my daughter to have any trouble, either.

I'm linking to ...

Pink & Brown Striped Seamless Bitty Pullover

Here is the small-striped version of my (free) Basic Seamless Bitty Pullover that I originally had in mind when I thought of stripes.

Since this is doll-sized, I made the stripes only four rows each. Lest you think I wove in all those ends, I chose to simply carry my yarn along the back of the work, since it wasn't even a full inch between stripes.

I did all the ribbing in the pink yarn. It worked out perfectly that way.

I love this color combination!

Patriotic Striped Bitty Pullover

Yes, another sweater for my daughter's Bitty Twins!



I've been furiously knitting sweaters with my Basic Seamless Bitty Pullover pattern, trying to see how many different ways I can use it. This sweater started out with two goals in mind:

1. use up small scraps, and
2. do some stripes.

I was pleased to be able to finish off every last scrap of these three colors. It was close enough that I was sweating it just a little, but I always finished with at least a few inches of yarn to spare. (It was that close.)

These are the row counts I used for the stripes:

Red - 26 rows (beginning ribbing through rnd 17 of increases)
White - 10 rows
Blue - 20 rows (including bottom ribbing)

I hope you're enjoying these doll knitting projects because I've been busy and have some more to share in the coming days.

Knitting: Cabled Variation of the Basic Seamless Bitty Pullover

 As soon as I finished designing the Basic Seamless Bitty Pullover (free pattern here), my mind was whirling with the possibilities. I adore cables, so that was the first variation on the list.

I loved the cable pattern from the front of this sweater (free from ABC Knitting Patterns), but I didn't want to do the seaming. So I tried it out on this style, and it worked beautifully.

There is a cable that extends down the arm, too.

This should also fit 18" dolls, like this Madame Alexander doll.


For those of you who like row-by-row directions, here you go ... It may look intimidating, but you'll quickly get the hang of it.

If you see any typographical errors, please let me know. Two (or more) sets of eyes are always better than one at catching typos!

Cabled Variation of the Basic Seamless Bitty Pullover

Materials

DK/sportweight yarn – 2 balls (1.75 ozs/50 g) The cables take more yarn (about 60 grams total), so be safe and make sure you have two skeins for this one.

needles – size 6 (DPNs and 16”) and size 4 (DPNs and 16”)

waste yarn in a contrasting color - two scraps to hold sleeve stitches

Gauge

8 rows = 1”, 5 sts = 1”

Instructions – Main Sweater

Using larger needles, cast on 68 sts (instead of the original 66). Place marker and join to work in the round. Work in 1x1 ribbing for 1 round. Switch to smaller needles. Continue in 1x1 ribbing for 15 rounds (2”). The extra inch forms the turtleneck.

Set-up Rnd: Switch to larger needles. K18, pm, k16, pm, k18, pm, k16, sm. (68 sts)

NOTE: Switch to 16” circular needle when you have enough stitches.

Rnd 1: *kfb, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, kfb, pm (front); kfb, k4, p1, k4, p1, k4, kfb, pm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (76 sts)  increase rnd

Rnd 2: *k2, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k2, sm (front); k6, p1, k4, p1, k6, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.

Rnd 3: *kfb, k1, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k1, kfb, sm (front); kfb, k5, p1, k4, p1, k5, kfb, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (84 sts)  increase rnd
(You should be able to switch to the 16” circular on this row.)

Rnd 4: *k3, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k3, sm (front); k7, p1, k4, p1, k7, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.

Rnd 5: *kfb, k2, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k2, kfb, sm (front); kfb, k6, p1, k4, p1, k6, kfb, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (92 sts)  increase rnd

Rnd 6: *k4, p1, C4B, p2, C2, p2, C4B, p1, k4, sm (front); k8, p1, C4B, p1, k8, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.  cable rnd

Rnd 7: *kfb, k3, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k3, kfb, sm (front); kfb, k7, p1, k4, p1, k7, kfb, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (100 sts) increase rnd

Rnd 8: *k5, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k5, sm (front); k9, p1, k4, p1, k9, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.

Rnd 9: *kfb, k4, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k4, kfb, sm (front); kfb, k8, p1, k4, p1, k8, kfb, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (108 sts) increase rnd

Rnd 10: *k6, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k6, sm (front); k10, p1, k4, p1, k10, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.

Rnd 11: *kfb, k5, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k5, kfb, sm (front); kfb, k9, p1, k4, p1, k9, kfb, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (116 sts) increase rnd

Rnd 12: *k7, p1, C4B, p2, C2, p2, C4B, p1, k7, sm (front); k11, p1, C4B, p1, k11, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.  cable rnd

Rnd 13: *kfb, k6, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k6, kfb, sm (front); kfb, k10, p1, k4, p1, k10, kfb, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (124 sts)  increase rnd

Rnd 14: *k8, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k8, sm (front); k12, p1, k4, p1, k12, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.

Rnd 15: *kfb, k7, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k7, kfb, sm (front); kfb, k11, p1, k4, p1, k11, kfb, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (132 sts)  increase rnd

Rnd 16: *k9, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k9, sm (front); k13, p1, k4, p1, k13, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.

Rnd 17: *kfb, k8, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k8, kfb, sm (front); kfb, k12, p1, k4, p1, k12, kfb, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time. (140 sts)  increase rnd

Rnd 18: *k10, p1, C4B, p2, C2, p2, C4B, p1, k10, sm (front); k14, p1, C4B, p1, k14, sm (sleeve); repeat from * one more time.  cable rnd

Rnd 19: * k10, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k10, remove marker, transfer 34 sleeve sts onto waste yarn, remove marker; repeat from * one more time. (72 working sts) Keep your "beginning of the row" marker in place!

Join front to back by continuing in the round ...

Rnd 20:  * k10, p1, k4, p2, k2, p2, k4, p1, k10; repeat from * one more time. (72 sts)
Rnd 21-23: Repeat Rnd 20.
Rnd 24: * k10, p1, C4B, p2, C2, p2, C4B, p1, k10; repeat from * one more time.  cable rnd
Rnd 25-29: Repeat Rnd 20.
Rnd 30: Repeat Rnd 24. cable rnd
Rnd 31-34: Repeat Rnd 20.
Rnd 35: *k7, k2 tog; repeat from * around. (64 sts)

Switch to smaller needles. Work in 1x1 ribbing for 8 rounds (1”). Bind off in pattern, using a stretchy bind-off. (This is the stretchy bind-off I used.)

Instructions – Sleeves

Transfer 34 arm sts from waste yarn onto larger DPNs. Pick up 4 sts under arm (2 on either side of middle underarm).

Rnd 1-3: k16, p1, k4, p1, k16. (38 sts)

Rnd 4: k1, ssk, k13, p1, k4, p1, k13, k2tog, k1. (36 sts)  decrease rnd

Rnd 5: k15, p1, k4, p1, k15.

Rnd 6: k15, p1, C4B, p1, k15.  cable rnd
Rnd 7: k15, p1, k4, p1, k15.
Rnd 8:  k1, ssk, k12, p1, k4, p1, k12, k2tog, k1. (34 sts)  decrease rnd

Rnd 9-11: k14, p1, k4, p1, k14.

Rnd 12: k1, ssk, k11, p1, C4B, p1, k11, k2tog, k1. (32 sts)  cable and decrease rnd

Rnd 13-15: k13, p1, k4, p1, k13.

Rnd 16: ssk, k10, p1, k4, p1, k10, k2tog, k1. (30 sts)  decrease rnd

Rnd 17: k12, p1, k4, p1, k12.

Rnd 18: k12, p1, C4B, p1, k12.  cable rnd

Rnd 19: k12, p1, k4, p1, k12.

Rnd 20: ssk, k9, p1, k4, p1, k9, k2tog, k1. (28 sts)  decrease rnd

Rnd 21-22: k11, p1, k4, p1, k11.

Rnd 23: ssk, k8, p1, k4, p1, k8, k2tog, k1. (26 sts)  decrease rnd

Switch to smaller DPNs. Work in k1,p1 ribbing for 8 rows (1”). Bind off in pattern, using a stretchy bind-off.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Knitting Abbreviations

C2 = faux cable 2 back (knit 2 sts together, but do not slide them off the needle; knit into the first st; slide both sts off the needle)
C4B = cable 4 back (slip first 2 sts to cable needle and hold in back; knit the next 2 sts; knit the 2 sts from cable needle)
k = knit
k2tog = knit two stitches together
kfb = knit front & back (increase)
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
ssk = slip, slip knit

Terms of Use

Use this pattern to make as many of these sweaters as you like. Give them away, sell them, do whatever you like with the finished product. All I ask is that you respect my copyright and not sell the pattern itself. Link-backs are appreciated, but the knitting police won't come after you if you don't. All I ask is that you play fair. Oh, and don't mention this to my daughter until after Christmas! :)

Free Knitting Pattern: Basic Seamless Bitty Pullover

Today I'm doing something completely new to me - sharing a knitting pattern I designed myself. 

I wanted to make some sweaters for my daughter's Bitty Twins for Christmas this year, but I couldn't find a pattern designed with their unique bodies in mind. I prefer seamless knits, too, since seaming is the bane of my knitting existence.

This is no earth-shattering pattern, but I hope it will help fellow moms (and those of you who collect these dolls yourself). If you want something more than a basic sweater, you can work this in stripes, add a chart, whatever. It's a basic pattern that can go a lot of different ways. But, most importantly, it fits the Bitty Twins great!

For your reference, the Twins are 15" tall with a 13" chest. They are slightly shorter and chunkier than the 18" dolls on the market.

If you try this and have any trouble, please let me know. I've test-knit it several times myself, but I know that things can slip through the cracks.

 

Basic Seamless Bitty Pullover

Materials

DK/sportweight yarn – 1 ball (1.75 ozs/50 g)

needles – size 6 (DPNs and 16”) and size 4 (DPNs and 16”)

waste yarn in a contrasting color - two scraps to hold sleeve stitches

Gauge

8 rows = 1”, 5 sts = 1”

Instructions – Main Sweater

Using larger needles, cast on 66 sts. Place marker and join to work in the round. Work in 1x1 ribbing for 1 round. Switch to smaller needles. Continue in 1x1 ribbing for 7 rounds (1”).

Set-up Rnd: Switch to larger needles. K17, pm, k16, pm, k17, pm, k16, sm. (66 sts)

NOTE: Switch to 16” circular needle when you have enough stitches.

Rnd 1: (k1, m1L, k to 2 sts before marker, m1R, k1, sm) repeat around. (74 sts)

Rnd 2: Knit all.

Rnd 3: Repeat Rnd 1 (increase rnd). (82 sts) (You should be able to switch to the 16” circular on this row.)

Rnd 4: Knit all.

Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 1 (increase rnd). (90 sts)

Rnd 6: Knit all.

Rnd 7: Repeat Rnd 1 (increase rnd). (98 sts)

Rnd 8: Knit all.

Rnd 9: Repeat Rnd 1 (increase rnd). (106 sts)

Rnd 10: Knit all.

Rnd 11: Repeat Rnd 1 (increase rnd). (114 sts)

Rnd 12: Knit all.

Rnd 13: Repeat Rnd 1 (increase rnd). (122 sts)

Rnd 14: Knit all.

Rnd 15: Repeat Rnd 1 (increase rnd). (130 sts)

Rnd 16: Knit all.

Rnd 17: Repeat Rnd 1 (increase rnd). (138 sts)

Rnd 18: Knit all.

Rnd 19: K35 sts, remove marker, transfer 34 sleeve sts onto waste yarn, remove marker, k35 sts, transfer 34 sleeve sts onto waste yarn.

Knit even until sweater measures 2-5/8” inches from underarm. On the last row, decrease 10 sts evenly around (*k5, k2tog; repeat from * around).

Switch to smaller needles. Work in 1x1 ribbing for 8 rounds (1”). Bind off in pattern, using a stretchy bind-off. (This is the stretchy bind-off I used.)

Instructions – Sleeves

Transfer 34 arm sts from waste yarn onto larger DPNs. Pick up 4 sts under arm (2 on either side of middle underarm).

Rnd 1-3: Knit. (38 sts)

Rnd 4: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (36 sts)

Rnd 5-7: Knit. (36 sts)

Rnd 8: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (34 sts)

Rnd 9-11: Knit. (34 sts)

Rnd 12: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (32 sts)

Rnd 13-15: Knit. (32 sts)

Rnd 16: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (30 sts)

Rnd 17-19: Knit (30 sts)

Rnd 20: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (28 sts)

Rnd 21-23: Knit. (28 sts)

Rnd 24: k1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. (26 sts)

Switch to smaller DPNs. Work in k1,p1 ribbing for 8 rows (1”). Bind off in pattern, using a stretchy bind-off.

Repeat for second sleeve.

Knitting Abbreviations

k = knit
k2tog = knit two stitches together
m1L = make one left (this is an increase - feel free to substitute your favorite increase)
m1R = make one right (this is an increase - feel free to substitute your favorite increase)
pm = place marker
sm = slip marker
ssk = slip, slip knit

Terms of Use

Use this pattern to make as many of these sweaters as you like. Give them away, sell them, do whatever you like with the finished product. All I ask is that you respect my copyright and not sell the pattern itself. Link-backs are appreciated, but the knitting police won't come after you if you don't. All I ask is that you play fair. Oh, and don't mention this to my daughter until after Christmas! :)

Bitty Twins Clothing: Hats and Mittens

Since it's a cold winter, even here where it doesn't snow a lot, I knew these dolls were going to need some hats and mittens. It certainly didn't hurt that I found the cutest patterns for them, either. :)

I made the girl's hat from a preemie pattern. It was a perfect fit, and I love the heart pattern!

The mittens were made from an American Girl Mittens pattern. I don't know if it's just the difference in these dolls as compared to the 18" American Girl dolls, but the thumbs on these turned out a bit too long. Oh well, she doesn't care, and neither do I. They're still adorable!

Here she is modeling them both together. I'm still looking for the perfect coat pattern. Until then, I figured we could dress her in a sweater and pretend it is her coat.

I made a hat and mittens for the boy doll, too, but I'll have to post those another day since one of his mittens went missing during our photo session.

Bitty Twins Clothing: Knit Sweaters

As I was honing my knitting skills, I decided to knit a few sweaters for these cuties, too. I didn't get to try them on until Christmas morning, since I let my daughter take all the packaging off the dolls herself. They fit pretty well, and we were both happy.

This Poppy Cardigan was made from variegated cotton yarn. Despite the way it looks bunched up in the picture, it really does fit well. I'm still perfecting how to pose these dolls.

This cardigan was one of my favorite designs. It really turned out well, and it actually looks like a real down-sized cardigan. It is appropriately named V-Neck Doll Cardigan, and I also knit it from variegated cotton yarn. (Yes, there was a good sale on it, and I wanted to work with it.)

I'm planning to knit more for these dolls, and I think I've discovered the trick to making them look more realistic. Fellow Ravelers have suggested that the best patterns for American Girls (and Bitty Twins) are the ones that use fingering-weight yarn and smaller needles. I have a few projects lined up, and I'll share them when they're finished.

Bitty Twins Clothing: Wrap Skirts

You probably remember the reversible wrap skirts I made for 18" dolls awhile back. Well, I discovered that I didn't have to lengthen the pattern for this doll in order to get it below her knees, so I was pretty happy about that. I made her a denim skirt from some old jeans that were in the rag pile.

I also made her a floral wrap skirt from some fabric I had purchased when my 12-year-old niece was about 2 years old. I never got around to making her the dress I had in mind, so I decided to sew a bunch of these skirts with it instead.

I just found out that there's a local group that makes doll beds and doll blankets for needy children at Christmastime, and I'm going to see if they could use the rest of the skirts to dress the dolls that accompany those gifts. I have lots of old denim jeans that I could easily donate to the cause, too, so I'll probably be working on that through the year as I get time.

Bitty Twins Clothing: Knitted Undies

Please excuse the fact that I'm posting my daughter's dolls in their underwear. Since they're not real kids, I didn't think anyone would mind. :)

As soon as I saw the pattern for these undies, I knew I had to knit them for these dolls. Of course, I couldn't add lacework to the boy's undies, so I did his in plain stockinette stitch. But ...

... The little girl got lacy ones.

You can probably tell that they're a little baggy in the waist. The original pattern was for the 18" American Girl dolls, whose bodies aren't as "cuddly" as the Twins' bodies. A fellow Raveler suggested that I weave some elastic into the waistbands, and I'm going to give it a try when I get brave enough.

Until then, my daughter doesn't seem to mind. They fit well enough to stay on, and that's all that she cares about. In fact, as soon as she unwrapped the dolls and the undies, she took off the blue training pants they came in and put these on them instead.

If you'd like to make some, you can find the free pattern on Ravelry here.

Bitty Twins Clothing: Twirly Skirt

Remember these twirly skirts? Everyone seems to love them, and my daughter is no exception. I adapted this to the shorter doll by using 4" squares instead of the 5" squares the pattern calls for.

This was especially easy, since I cut my sheet/project scraps into squares. I had a huge stack of 4" squares, so I picked out yellows and blues for this skirt.

The shirt is from Simplicity #1952, and I love it so much more than any other shirt I've ever sewn for these type of dolls. Its raglan sleeves are super-easy to work with.

I got about 8 yards of this white knit material at the thrift store, so I have lots and lots and lots. I'm pretty sure most of the girls I know that like dolls will be getting at least one of these shirts this year as part of a gift.

Bitty Twins Clothing: Yellow Fleece PJ's

Obviously these twins need some nightclothes, right? :) I made both of their pajamas from a remnant of yellow fleece I picked up at some point. I think it was 1/3 yard, but I can't remember for sure. At any rate, it was just enough. I didn't have a scrap left!

These were made with the same pattern as the camo pj's, Simplicity #1952. I love this pattern! The only thing I would recommend is that you cut the neckband (the facing) twice as long as it shows, since the only fabric I've ever worked with that stretches that much is a knit.

If you have this pattern, or if you've seen it, you know that there is no nightgown pattern. For fleece, I didn't want anything with gathers anyway, so I simply lengthened the shirt pattern to the length I wanted it. Now they have matching jammies.

Both of these have back Velcro closures, which I highly recommend for children. Buttons can get fiddly, and zippers can pinch fingers (and dolls' fabric bodies).

I hope you're enjoying my Bitty Twins fashion show because there's lots more to come! :)

Bitty Twins Clothing: Flannel Camo PJs

Now that my daughter has unwrapped her Bitty Twins, I can start sharing all the clothes I made for them in December. I'm not sure I'm positioning them in the doll stand correctly, so please forgive the awkward placement of his legs.

This set of camouflage pajamas was the very first thing I sewed for these dolls. I was sitting at my sewing table one morning and happened to glance over at the stack of flannel fabric I had sitting out. The flannel camouflage caught my eye, and I had the inspiration for this set.

In case you can't tell, this Bitty Twin (my daughter has tentatively decided to call him Ryan) is very excited about camouflage! ;)

By the way, if you're looking to sew some doll clothes, too, I highly recommend this raglan style of shirt. It's so much easier than the set-in sleeves I've tried before. ETA: The pattern I used is Simplicity #1952, which is specifically sized for a 15" doll.